Rocksession

Hey :-) 

Just some short news about my rocksession today, I did my project (Phallus Dei, 8b) which I described in a preceding post about my rock projects in the Arena (link: http://jakobgreistorfer.blogspot.co.at/2013/09/update.html). I felt really in shape, probably the hard training pays off. Now I've done all three routes that I wanted to climb but I've already checked out another really interesting 8b :D. 

Keep climbing! 

The Training camp in Judenburg

Hey folks!

This post is about the training camp which took place in Judenburg from Tuesday to Thursday. It was a camp of the Styrian climbing team. Without exaggeration I can say that we all trained really hard and gave our best. After our arrival on Tuesday we did some warming up with our coach David, then we started with project climbing. As the gym in Judenburg is one of the best in the country, we all found a challenging route. I jumped onto a white 8b+ which worked its way through the steep main wall. At my first go I checked out all the moves and on my second go I came really close to the top, in fact I fell three moves before the final jug. 

Pinching hard on the first section of the 8b+

On my next go I managed to climb one move further, but unfortunately I was too pumped to continue. To finish the first day I climbed a couple of easier routes. 

Me on an endurance based 8a

Concentrating on the next clip

Fighting hard in the transition from the roof to the headwall

The next day began with some balance training then we focused on technique. I received a bunch of useful tips from our coach. Afterwards I tried the white 8b+ again. Sad to say that I couldn't do it because I felt a bit tired after the first day. Nevertheless I was quite pleased with my performance, almost climbing an 8b+ at my second go is not a bad effort for me :-). In the afternoon we did a competition simulation which was a really good training. To round off the day I did some campusing exercises and one arms. I slept quite well that night xD. 

Next day we did some running in the morning in order to rid ourselves of tiredness and exhausted forearms. Afterwards we concentrated on stretching. Then I climbed ten routes in two and a half hours to improve my basic endurance. After that I felt completely wasted. Actually I almost fell asleep after lunch xD. In the afternoon I just assisted David a little bit because I didn't feel capable of doing any exercise ^^. 

To sum up I think it was a great camp which was pretty intense in every respect. We focused on technique and balance training as well as on competition simulation and pure strength exercises. I really tried hard and absolutely need a restday now. On Saturday I'm going to drive to the Arena again to try my project. Let's see if the hard training payed off... 

Some more pics (many thanks to David who took almost all of the pictures, thumbs UP man, you did a great job :-D):

Trying to unlock the sequences from the ground

Tired but happy :D

Update

Hey guys :-)

It's time for some news :-) I spent the last days mostly with climbing outdoors and on my restdays I was routesetting in my home gym. Since I have my driving license I feel way more motivated to try hard routes outdoors because I can return to the crags whenever I want. Recently we often drove to the Arena which is a phenomenal spot close to Graz. I can highly recommend this area to anyone who wants to climb hard :-). A few weeks ago I chose three routes there to concentrate on. Trainingswahn is the first one, it's an 8a+ which starts with a 7c followed by two more sections of 8b routes, in fact, the easier parts of the 8b's. It's a real pumper, the single moves are not so hard but altogether they are tiring. I already did the route :-), so there were two more left. One of them is called Hobkobold (8a), it's a completely different route compared to Trainingswahn although the start is the same. Hobkobold turns to the right after the start where a tricky boulder problem waits. I found a pretty fine beta, and did the route yesterday after falling once at the second to last move which is a nice stretch from a good tufa. Unfortunately the whole tufa was soaking and I slipped off pretty badly. Anyway I did the route on my next go :-). The last route is called Phallus Dei (I know the name is kind of weird ^^) it is an 8b with a bouldery start followed by pumpy climbing with a crazy crux at the end where you have to twist your hand kind of unnaturally to grab a two finger pocket. I already came very close to the top, once I even passed the final crux but fell on the last moves because I was so pumped ^^ but I'm really psyched for that one. Today I had a nice restday, spending almost twelve hours in my home gym doing some routesetting :D and tomorrow I'm heading to Judenburg in order to take part in a three days training camp of our Styrian team. I'm really motivated to train hard with a bunch of strong guys :-) and next weekend I'll be out in the Arena again :-), so stay tuned for news and pics!

Keep climbing!